Meet Johnny Lemer: Our Diamond Expert
If you’ve visited our London office over the years, there’s a good chance you’ve met Johnny.
With more than five decades in the diamond trade, Johnny has built up a wealth of experience - but if you ask him, he's still learning.
We caught up with him to chat about how he first got into the industry, the moments that have stayed with him throughout his career and what continues to make the job so enjoyable today.
How did you first find your way into the diamond trade, and what do you remember about those early days?
I was 16 years old when I left school in 1968. Didn't have any desire to go into the diamond business. Wanted to be a professional footballer but wasn't quite good enough. So, I didn't go to university. I came out with three O-Levels: English Language, Maths and Religious Instruction, so university wasn’t really on the cards.
My father and uncle were in the diamond business. So, my dad said, “Why don't you come and learn the trade? If you decide not to stay in it, that's up to you, but learn the trade.”
So, at 16 I came to Hatton Garden and did a little apprenticeship. I spent six months in the factory learning how to cut and polish diamonds, then basically went straight into sales.
Looking back, was there a particular person or experience that had a lasting impact on your career?
I wouldn't say anyone in particular, really. Just a combination of different people. It was a more gradual process of learning the trade, learning about the product, and gaining the experience working with the stones. I went out on the road to retailers very early on, probably when I was only 17 or 18,and that was a bit of a shock at the time.
Was there ever a point where you felt like you'd really mastered the trade, or do you still feel like you're learning?
I think I'm still learning all the time. It’s changed dramatically over the years, so there’s always something new.
In the early days, I still wasn’t convinced that it was what I wanted to do. In fact, I did a correspondence course in accountancy. I was always good with figures and even got my Maths O-Level a year early. So, accountancy seemed the logical route, but I found it ever so boring.
So that's when I thought, okay, let's see where the diamond business takes me.
Which skills came most naturally to you, and which took the longest to develop?
I was quite a quick learner. I quickly learned how to look at diamonds, understand their clarity, and spot the different marks and colour shades within the stones.
I'd also say my dexterity came quite naturally - being able to pick up the stones with tweezers and having a good eye to understand the good from the bad.
The hardest thing for me was probably speaking to customers, because I was a very shy and reserved individual. It was the selling side that I found difficult rather than the small talk. As time went on, I did a lot of buying for the company, and I loved buying, negotiating and trying to get the best deal.
I've always found selling more difficult. It was the communication side that I found challenging. It was Valerie, my wife, who probably brought the social side out of me.
After all these years, what do you still enjoy most about working with diamonds?
I think just the variation - every day is different. You don't know what's going to happen, whether you're going to be selling a big stone or sorting out a hundred little stones. It's the general diversity that I enjoy.
People say I should be thinking about retiring, but I still enjoy it. The only thing that gets me down is the commute! On a day-to-day basis, I still enjoy what I do.
Is there a particular diamond, piece of jewellery or project that's stayed with you throughout your career?
Well, a piece of jewellery I'll never forget - although I didn't work on it myself - is the Williamson Pink Diamond Brooch from Queen Elizabeth II's personal collection. My late father, while at Briefel & Lemer, was involved in the cutting of the famous pink diamond at its centre, so that's always meant a lot to me.
As for one I've personally handled, nothing particularly comes to mind.
Looking back on your career, what's been your proudest moment?
Halfway through my time at Star Diamond, I decided to go out on my own. It didn't work out, but when I wanted to return, they welcomed me back with open arms.
That meant a great deal to me, and I was proud they still wanted me back after four years away.
How has the diamond trade changed since you first started?
The thing that's changed the most is the freedom and trust. Twenty or thirty years ago, you could walk through Hatton Garden with a million pounds worth of diamonds or jewellery and feel safe. Whereas now, you couldn't.
And of course the introduction of lab-grown diamonds.
When lab-grown diamonds first entered the market, did you expect them to become such a significant part of the trade?
No, I thought they'd probably go the way of cubic zirconia. But in hindsight, I can understand why there is a market for them.
Initially, I didn't want anything to do with them. By choice, I still wouldn't handle them, but commercially they've become part of the business, and you have to adapt. I'm quite an adaptable person, so you just go with the flow.
I think one of the things that makes natural diamonds special is the heirloom side of them. That's always been one of the things I've loved about natural diamonds.
What advice would you give someone who's buying a diamond for the first time?
Come and see me.
Personally, I’d advise them to buy a naturally mined diamond because of the history of it, just the story behind natural diamonds and if you can go to a reputable trader. At least there you're going to get value for money.
What do you enjoy most about working at S Weissbart?
I think for me, it's working as part of a team. I worked as part of a team for 40 years at Star Diamond, then spent time working on my own, which can be quite a lonely experience.
Jonathan and David approached me because I used to come up here as a customer, and they said, "Why don't you come and join us?" I was delighted to be part of a team again.
We have a good, happy team here.
If we couldn't find you in Hatton Garden, where should we start looking?
Probably on a golf course. I'd be spending my time trying to be the best golfer I could be. I doubt I'd ever become a professional golfer, but it's my only real hobby.
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